Tierra de contrastes

Es una ciudad llena de rascacielos, muchos de ellos hoteles de primera línea. [ Ver fotogalería ]

Visitar Panamá requiere adaptarse a aceptar lo inesperado como normal. Ya desde el arribo en el Aeropuerto Internacional Marcos A. Gelabert, la recepción es tan amigable que, cuando uno hace los trámites de migraciones, le entregan una Tarjeta de Salud para que pueda atenderse de forma gratuita durante la estadía en el país por treinta días corridos. «Cubre hasta mordidas de serpientes», aclara bromista la agente migratoria. Aunque uno no espera usarlo, realmente da otra tranquilidad que el gobierno panameño encabezado por el Presidente Ricardo Martinelli Berrocal tenga en cuenta de esa forma a los numerosos turistas que llegan hasta el país.

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Así es de hospitalario el panameño, y uno lo comprueba a cada paso que da, ya sea en la Ciudad Vieja, en la parte más moderna, comprando en uno de sus shoppings (baratísimos!) y conviviendo con los indios kuna en una de sus 365 islas de exuberante vegetación.

Mundo aparte.

La Nación Kuna Yala está compuesta por 365 pequeñas islas de arenas blancas y agua transparente. Sus habitantes no aceptan la legislación nacional y se rigen por sus propias leyes y moneda: el coco, bien preciado que cae de sus palmeras. Para llegar hasta allí desde Panamá capital hace falta transitar 60 km de camino muy sinuoso hasta el popular Muelle de San Blas y luego media hora de lancha. También existe la posibilidad de visitarlas en avioneta.

Tanto cuidan los lugareños su reino que tienen un representante ante el Congreso Nacional, quien se ocupa de hacer valer los derechos de los isleños y su cacique. Esto no quiere decir que los indios kuna no salgan de su territorio. Todo lo contrario, luego de cumplir con el colegio primario, muchos jóvenes optaron con seguir estudios universitarios en la capital o en el exterior. Además, tienen fama de ser los mejores cocineros del mundo.

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Esto se comprueba fácilmente cuando uno disfruta de la primera comida en las islas, generalmente a base de pescado o enormes langostas, acompañadas por verduras deliciosamente preparadas y presentadas de manera sencilla.